Tweed, Tipples, and Turbulence: Birthday+1 on the Isles

Birthday bonus round: Stornoway and beyond

Okay, fine — I couldn’t quite get away with calling it another birthday, so let’s go with birthday + 1. Today we docked in Stornoway, ready for an adventure that took us deep into the rugged, windswept beauty of Isle of Lewis and Harris. The drive took about an hour and gave us the kind of views that make you stop mid-sentence and go, “Whoa.”

The Isle of Harris, technically the southern half of Lewis and Harris (Scotland’s largest island), is packed with ancient history and raw natural charm. From Iron Age brochs (and monuments along the way) to standing stones, this is a place where crofting, Gaelic traditions, and wild beaches all coexist in a timeless landscape. But what it’s really known for? Tweed. Glorious, handwoven Harris Tweed.

Tweed, Traditions, and a Dash of Distilling

Harris Tweed isn’t just fabric — it’s a protected art form. Every piece is made from pure virgin wool, dyed and spun in the Outer Hebrides, then woven by hand in the weaver’s own home. Since 1993, it’s been protected by an Act of Parliament, and each bolt is stamped with the official Orb mark. It’s tradition-meets-craftsmanship at its finest — and still a proud part of the island’s livelihood today.

Our stop today was the Isle of Harris Distillery. The Isle of Harris Distillery, located in the harbour village of Tarbert, holds the distinction of being the first legal distillery ever built on the island. The idea behind the distillery was born out of a desire to support the local community and help reverse the long-term trend of population decline. Construction began in the early 2010s with significant public and private investment, and by September 2015, the distillery officially opened its doors. Built on a reclaimed site by the shores of East Loch Tarbert, it houses traditional copper stills and was designed not only to produce fine spirits but also to act as a beacon of sustainable rural development.

From its inception, the distillery has embraced the ethos of being a "Social Distillery"—a place that puts people and community at the heart of everything it does. It launched with a team of local residents and quickly became a major employer on the island. Its first product, Isle of Harris Gin, quickly gained recognition for its unique flavour, enhanced by local sugar kelp. After years of careful maturation, the distillery released its much-anticipated single malt whisky, The Hearach, in 2023. More than just a producer of spirits, the distillery has become a major drawcard for visitors to Harris, blending tradition, craftsmanship and community spirit in every drop.

We did a tasting of the two whiskeys they had – along with the history of how it all came about. It was quite interesting. As part of the tasting, the lady advised to smell the whiskey with one nostril then the other. Easy enough. The next test was a lot harder for Ros – smell with one nostril with your mouth open. Let’s just say that it provided a lot of laughter for Ros and I recounting it – especially with the video I have haha.

Shop stops and swells ahead

After the tasting, we popped into the Harris Tweed store nearby. I picked up a handsome cap, and Ros found a lovely scarf. Fashionably fortified, we headed back along the same stunning coastal route to the ship.

Back in our suite, we found a surprise waiting: an invite to Chef’s Table on 29 June. Exciting! But before we could even think about dessert pairings, we were called to the Port Talk, where the Captain joined to share an update — and not a calm one.

Brace for impact: Weather on the way

We were leaving Stornoway for the Faroe Islands, but the sea had other ideas. Swells of 3 to 3.5 metres were expected in the evening — and if we couldn’t dock in the Faroes, it would mean riding out 4.5 metre waves at anchor. Not ideal. So, the decision was made: leave an hour early to beat the worst of it and aim for shelter.

Dinner was at Elements, though it was noticeably quieter — maybe only half full. It seems a lot of passengers chose to ride it out in bed. The food, however, didn’t miss a beat, and the conversation with the Maitre D’Hotel was the highlight. He regaled us with stories of the Drake Passage, where 6 to 8 metre swells are standard. He was telling us one fascinating story about guests seated at a table with the table, chairs and guests all moving along the floor with the swells. That would be a sight!

I tried filming the swells through the restaurant window — but of course, the camera never quite does it justice. Let’s just say you had to hold your wine and your footing.

Another night of being rocked to sleep!