Tea, Tender Rides and a Touch of Nobility: A Day in Concarneau
Anchors Away, But Not Too Far
We arrived in Concarneau this morning, gently anchored about 20 minutes offshore. That meant a tender ride into the marina—a smooth one, thankfully. No rogue waves. No soggy shorts. Just a calm journey across the water with the walled city coming into view like something from a storybook (albeit one that smells faintly of crêpes and sunscreen).
Château Keriolet: Fairytale with a DIY Twist
Our first stop was Château de Keriolet, a 19th-century neo-Gothic gem tucked away in the rolling Breton countryside. But behind its turrets and tapestries is a modern tale of passion, patience, and power tools.
Originally built on the foundations of an older manor, the château was transformed in the 1800s by Princess Zénaïde Narischkine Youssoupoff—a Russian aristocrat who married a local nobleman and decided their modest home needed a dramatic upgrade. Think stained glass, spiral staircases, and carved stonework so intricate it looks like it should come with a "do not touch" sign.
But as grand as it is now, the château’s glory days were followed by a period of neglect. For a time, Keriolet was left to the elements—roof leaking, stone crumbling, nature quietly reclaiming it room by room.
Then came a revival.
About 25 years ago, the current owner’s uncle bought the property and began painstakingly restoring it. Over two decades, he chipped away at the decay, one room and roof tile at a time. Five years ago, his nephew—the current owner—took over the reins and has continued the restoration with incredible dedication. He’s now been working on it full-time ever since, blending traditional techniques with a few modern comforts (we suspect central heating may have made the cut).
Walking through the château today, it’s a mix of history and heart: the ornate ceilings and original furnishings whisper of imperial pasts, but there’s also a living, breathing energy—someone's home-in-progress, not just a museum piece. You can feel the personal pride in every stone that's been reset, every beam re-polished.
Concarneau’s Walled City: History with a Gelato Chaser
Next up was Concarneau’s walled city—a fortified island once built to protect the harbour, now devoted to charming the socks off every tourist who sets foot inside. A stone bridge connects the island to the mainland, and from the moment you cross it, you’re stepping back in time.
Inside the granite ramparts, it's all narrow cobbled streets, pastel shutters, crooked rooftops and half-timbered buildings that somehow haven't toppled after all these centuries. Flower boxes overflow with colour, shop windows tempt with everything from striped Breton shirts to locally-made cider, and every third step seems to reveal another crêperie.
We wandered aimlessly and happily—ducking into little laneways, checking out cafés, and peeking through ancient arrow slits that once kept invaders at bay. Today, they’re just perfect frames for a photo of the harbour.
There’s a feeling here that life hasn’t changed much in the last few hundred years—except now the townsfolk are more likely to hand you a scoop of salted caramel ice cream than a sword.
The guide told us about a butter cake (Kouign Amann) – apparently it’s best eaten warm so the butter melts. We thought we would try some on our way back to the tender. One piece each … but one piece between us would have been enough. It was a caramel-flavoured oozy goodness. After polishing enough of that to make us feel stuffed, we continued our journey. I picked up a souvenir tea towel as well.
Back Onboard and into Relaxation Mode
After a brief but pleasant tender ride back (still dry!), we spent the early afternoon in full recharge mode—lounging, reading, and watching the sea drift past as the ship lifted anchor and began its journey towards St Mary’s in the Isles of Scilly.
It’s hard to overstate how relaxing it is to sit on a balcony, do nothing in particular, and still feel like you’re getting somewhere.
Afternoon Tea: Redemption, Mousse and Mountains of Food
From 3pm to 4pm, the Scenic Lounge was transformed into an edible art gallery. The afternoon tea spread was outrageous—in the best way. Multi-tiered trays of dainty sandwiches, warm scones with clotted cream and jam, glossy fruit tarts, mousse-filled desserts, and pastries as far as the eye could see.
And yes—the chocolate mousse dome was back. I spotted it earlier at Azure Café and made a beeline to secure one for Ros. Some might say that makes up for the time I didn’t share one earlier in the cruise. Redemption? I’m claiming it.
Ros enjoyed her Earl Grey while I stuck with English Breakfast. Both teas went great with the pastries, and by the end we were full, happy, and already contemplating which part of the spread we’d dream about in our nap.
Nap, Port Talk, and a Dose of Smugness
Naturally, after consuming half a patisserie’s worth of baked goods, I retreated for a nap. I woke just in time for the port talk, which covered tomorrow’s day trips and the following days disembarkation plans. A moment of quiet smugness followed—Ros and I aren’t going anywhere just yet. We’ll be staying on for the next leg, watching as everyone else sadly contemplates packing cubes and airport transfers.
Koko’s: Asia on a Plate
We finished the day at Koko’s Asian Fusion, which once again knocked it out of the park. Ros’s entrée was ‘Arctic Char’ which the waiter described as “if papa salmon and mama trout had a baby” – it pretty much was right like that. Fantastic food yet again and couldn’t fault anything.
Setting Sail for the Isles
With Concarneau behind us and the Isles of Scilly ahead, we settled in for the evening—well-fed, well-steeped, and slightly envious of the man with a château and a renovation plan. Then again, we’ve got a floating palace, mousse on demand, and nowhere to be. Fair trade, we’d say.
