Sheep Dreams and Whisky Schemes: A Detour to Islay

Weather vs wanderlust

Today was supposed to be a peaceful kind of day — the sort where you wander through lush green Northern Irish countryside, meet some friendly sheep, and take in the charm of a working sheep farm. We were meant to anchor off Portrush and head out for a relaxing afternoon in the rolling hills. But the weather clearly had other plans.

Strong swells meant we had to anchor further out than usual, and conditions were far from tender-friendly. In fact, one poor crew member squealed (audibly!) as their tender was hoisted back onto the ship — not quite the level of confidence you want before boarding. With safety top of mind, the Captain made the tough call to cancel the Portrush stop. A shame, but hard to argue when the sea looks like it’s auditioning for The Perfect Storm. (slightly over exaggerated haha)

Plan B: The Scottish Shuffle

To his credit, the Captain wasn’t giving up. Belfast? No room at the inn. The Scottish Islands? Maybe — but we’d need to wait for Donald, the local port radio operator, who doesn’t start work until 9am. (Respect.)

Eventually, the radio crackled to life — Donald was on duty, and we got the green light to head for Port Ellen, Isle of Islay. No excursions, no plan — just pure "every man and woman for themselves" energy. We were in.

Castle Ambitions and Taxi Absurdities

We set off for a walk, turning right along the coastline. About 4km away were some castle ruins we had ambitious thoughts of reaching — but, like many holiday fitness plans, that goal quietly slipped away the further we went. I tried to book an Uber, but it was clear the app had never heard of Islay.

Next attempt: calling a taxi. One was on the other side of the island. The other one just... didn’t answer. Possibly out chasing sheep. Or napping. Or maybe it was just Donald doing double duty.

Still, the walk was absolutely worth it. Stopping along the way to walk up the bush track to a monument, the views were stunning — sweeping shoreline, crisp island air, and dramatic skies that made even a casual stroll feel cinematic. We also saw plenty of actual sheep along the way, calmly grazing like they owned the place. Which, to be fair, they probably do.

Eventually we turned back (6km walk in total) and returned to the ship a little windblown and a lot hungry.

Whiskies and War Stories

The bar staff, ever the heroes, turned the evening into a celebration of our unexpected destination. They arranged tastings of local Islay whiskies, rich with peat and character. I sampled a couple after dinner — smooth, smoky, and thoroughly deserving of a slow sip.

Dinner itself was at Elements, and we were joined by the Hotel Manager and another couple for a hosted meal. Over several courses, he regaled us with stories from his 30 years in the cruise industry — guests with different reasons for travel, unpredictable seas, the beautiful places visited, the behind-the-scenes magic that keeps the whole show afloat.

It was one of those dinners where the food was excellent, but the conversation made it memorable. We came away with full stomachs and a newfound appreciation for the people who make our adventures feel effortless — even when they’re anything but.

Final thoughts: a woolly win

So no sheep farm today — but plenty of sheep, a windswept wander, a dram or two of whiskey, and a detour we won’t forget. Not a bad trade, really.