A Night to Remember – Chef’s Table and Faroese Tales

A Change in Plans (and a Jail with a View)

The original schedule for today had us going around to anchor in another part of the Island and then do our tours from there. The Captain decided yesterday that our best bet was to stay docked where we were and then get buses to where we had to be. I was ok with that approach given the latest was 4.4m waves.

Our selected tour was cancelled given the weather so we chose another one to go on – this one was “Island of Vagar”. A short drive up the top of one of the mountains was an old military base that was now a jail. Similar to the houses it had grass roofs on each of the buildings. I’m not sure how many people were housed there, but it could not have been too many. It did have the best view of any jail I had ever seen though.

We also learnt about salmon steps, an ingenious solution designed to help salmon navigate upstream past man-made barriers like dams or weirs. These stepped channels mimic the natural flow of rivers, allowing migrating salmon to leap from one pool to the next as they make their way to spawning grounds. In the Faroes, where fishing is such a key part of life and the environment is carefully managed, these steps play an important role in preserving the natural salmon population. Our guide pointed out how they not only support the ecosystem but also reflect the Faroese commitment to balancing traditional fishing practices with sustainable environmental stewardship. It was a small but fascinating insight into how locals live in harmony with nature.

History, hymns and a Viking relic

Our first stop was Sandavágur, where we visited a striking red-roofed church standing proudly against the dramatic Faroese landscape. Built in 1917, the church is a beautiful example of traditional Faroese architecture – whitewashed walls, bright red trim, and timber pews. Inside, we found a warm, welcoming space with nautical-themed decor that hinted at the community’s deep maritime roots.

The most fascinating feature? An ancient runestone housed inside, dating back to the 13th century. It bears an inscription believed to be from a Norwegian Viking named Torkil Onundarson, who claimed to have settled in the area. A direct, stone-carved link to the Viking era – very cool.

Our guide also spoke passionately about the Faroese language – how it evolved from Old Norse and came dangerously close to disappearing. Thanks to the resilience of the Faroese people, it was preserved and is now a key part of their cultural identity. To give us a taste, she and the guide for the other group sang a hymn in Faroese right there in the church. It was a soft, melodic moment that filled the room and left everyone quietly moved.

Cliffs, carrot cake and cliffhanger tourists

We travelled through hills and valleys, past more waterfalls than I could count, and eventually reached a small restaurant for tea, coffee, and homemade carrot cake. After our 20-minute stop, Ros and I took the longer walk to the waterfall. It was a winding path but the views made it well worth the effort.

We finally made it to the waterfall. After a few selfies and pictures, we noticed some absolute geniuses (not from our group) had gone over the edge of the roped-off area and were standing on the cliff ledge, taking turns for their photo ops. Honestly, it was peak Darwin Awards material. We decided we’d seen enough and made our way back to the bus.

A light lunch and a fellow shorts-wearer

Ravin, our butler, had advised us to go light on lunch given tonight’s plans. Spoiler alert: we actually listened. While at lunch, we met a couple from New Zealand – and I found a kindred spirit! He was also rocking shorts despite the chilly weather. I’m fairly confident it’s just the two of us on board with such bold (and possibly foolish) wardrobe choices.

Toolkits, torches and ten incredible courses

Chef’s table time! We arrived at Elements, ready to see what happens here. We were truly intrigued. As we waited, we saw Ravin again, escorting a couple of people in. As we introduced ourselves, we noticed a common theme – they were from our floor. It appeared all 10 of us were from the same floor – not bad for a floor with a maximum of 20 people!

The evening began with a glass of champagne, then we were lead into a room with windows where we could see the kitchen action happening, we waved at the smiling kitchen staff. The table had a mysterious ‘toolbox’ at each setting. On top of it: an hourglass, brush, and what looked like a salt or pepper shaker full of pink / purple glitter. The rest would be revealed dish by dish.

Ashish, the Executive Chef, introduced the team who would be taking us through a culinary journey over the next few hours.

First dish: Pumpkin Houdini. Pumpkin, ginger, lemongrass mousse, gel, herbs.

Second dish: Tomato, Mozzarella, basil, sponge. The container in the top we had to take out and squirt around the dish – it was a tomato sauce.

Third dish: Back to school. Foie gras lollypop and candy floss. We had to open our toolbox, grab out the spray bottle (vinegar) and spray it on the candy floss, which just disappeared.

Fourth dish: Ceviche, marinating sauce. We had to use the hourglass to ensure the marinating sauce had enough time to go through the ceviche.

Fifth dish: Cigars. Wagyu beef mince. Ash in ashtray is extra seasoning.

Sixth dish: Beef rib, BBQ sauce. Use the brush to brush on sauce to the beef rib.

Seventh dish: Purple Rain. Salmon, cabbage, cabbage and cabbage.

Eighth dish: Steak cooked on hot stones and blow torch.

Ninth dish: Spice marinated lamb chop. Tamarind and chutney mixed up with pestle as part of toolkit.

Pre dessert: Chocolate bread dough, chocolate shavings, chocolate mousse, mandarin caviar, mandarin puree.

Dessert at the table: banana mousse, banana gelato, chocolate crumbs.

A night to remember – culinary magic at sea

Every dish was paired with a wine by Taf (a.k.a. Sidney Poitier as he called himself). I gave it a valiant effort to keep up with the pours, but I think Ros definitely outpaced me. The kitchen team worked seamlessly behind the glass wall, and you could see how much fun they were having – it added to the atmosphere in the best possible way. Ashish, the Executive Chef, deserves major credit for pulling off such a complex and imaginative experience with flair.

By the time we all wobbled out of the room, it was hard to tell if it was the ship’s sway or the wine. Our theory? With enough alcohol, you counterbalance the waves and walk perfectly straight.

An excellent evening and Ros and I are so appreciative of the invite. Tonight was an extraordinary night. To say the least, the food was fantastic, the wine was fantastic, the staff were absolutely fantastic and the company was great too. This was one of the highlights of the trip and something that couldn’t be understated.