Legends, Lava Fields, and Last-Minute Surprises: Our Icelandic Grand Tour

A Day of Legends, Lava, and Laughs: Jewels of the North

Today was set to be a big one—we were off on a seven-hour adventure called Jewels of the North, promising plenty of sights and stops throughout the day. We had an early-ish start with breakfast at 8am before meeting in the lounge at 8:30am, ready to hit the road.

We ended up snagging the seats right up the back of the bus, along with a group of six other Aussies. There must be something about Australians naturally gravitating to the back of the bus—probably a mix of habit and wanting a bit of extra space!

The Mighty Goðafoss – Waterfall of the Gods

Our first stop of the day was the mighty Goðafoss, also known as Waterfall of the Gods. The falls were absolutely stunning, with powerful cascades tumbling into a turquoise pool below. Legend has it that back in the year 1000, Þorgeir Ljósvetningagoði, a local chieftain and law speaker, threw his pagan idols into the falls as a symbolic act when Iceland converted to Christianity. It’s a dramatic sight, both in appearance and in history.

We wandered around the viewing areas, snapping plenty of photos from different angles. The falls were roaring, and the mist in the air gave everything a slightly magical quality. However, the local midges were out in full force, reminding us that beauty sometimes comes with a price. They weren’t like ours that bite – these ones just try to get in your mouth, ears or up your nose.

Despite the midges, we found it hard to pull ourselves away from Goðafoss. It’s one of those places where you could easily sit for hours just watching the water rush by—but we had many more stops ahead.

A Hearty Lunch with New Friends

Next up was lunch at Hotel Laxá, seemingly in the middle of nowhere but perfectly placed for hungry travellers. The hotel sits near Lake Mývatn and has views across its peaceful waters. We enjoyed a hearty meal of creamy mushroom soup followed by fresh trout with vegetables—simple but very tasty.

Over lunch, we got chatting with a friendly couple from Lancaster, US. He joked that while he was from Lancaster, he wasn’t Amish! We swapped travel stories and picked up a few tips for exploring their hometown region, along with some laughs about how unpredictable Iceland’s weather can be.

The Otherworldly Pseudo-Craters of Skútustaðagígar

Not far up the road, we visited the Skútustaðagígar pseudo-craters—an intriguing spot formed by steam explosions when lava flowed over wetlands, creating crater-like formations. Though they resemble volcanic craters, they’re actually “rootless” and completely unique to places with this geological history.

We stopped by the small information centre to learn more about how these odd formations came to be. Inside, they had some interactive lava exhibits which were surprisingly fun—we couldn’t resist poking at the displays. Outside, we wandered around the tops of the craters, which almost felt otherworldly. The views across Lake Mývatn were stunning, with the volcanic mounds dotting the landscape like something out of a sci-fi movie.

Sulphur Steam and Rain Showers at Hverir

Our next stop took us to Hverir, a hot sulphuric geothermal area that assaults the senses the moment you arrive. The smell hit us like a wall—absolutely horrendous, like rotten eggs dialled up to maximum. But despite the overpowering odour, it was fascinating to walk among the bubbling mud pots and hissing steam vents.

One of the guys on the bus, who was a retired Doctor, was chatting to me about my shirt. He was very inquisitive about what led to the diagnosis etc. I did explain that there were no symptoms of the cancer itself, just low iron that magically went back to normal after they did tests and found something. He seemed genuinely shocked to meet someone that had been diagnosed, surgery and survival in such a short time, he mentioned that we must have had a good GP, that didn’t let it go, did mention that he was very surprised I was here given the low survival rates.

The ground here felt alive, with colours shifting between bright yellows, oranges, and earthy reds from the minerals. We didn’t last too long though—the combination of the sulphur and an incoming rain shower had us scurrying back to the bus. Just as we boarded, the rain began to fall, so our timing couldn’t have been better.

Trolls, Tales, and Lava Towers at Dimmuborgir

Our final stop of the day was Dimmuborgir, a dramatic lava field known for its strange formations and eerie atmosphere. The name translates to “Dark Castles,” and it’s easy to see why—jagged rocks and towering lava pillars create a labyrinth-like landscape that feels like something out of Game of Thrones (some scenes were even filmed nearby). The area was formed over 2,300 years ago during a volcanic eruption, creating its unique lava formations and deep caverns.

According to Icelandic folklore, Dimmuborgir is home to trolls (Yule Lads) and elves—and walking through it, it wasn’t hard to imagine why. We followed one of the marked trails, weaving through the formations and marvelling at natural arches, caves, and towering spires. It felt like being in a fantasy novel, surrounded by surreal scenery and ancient stories.

Stories Shared and a Sweet Surprise

On the way back to Akureyri, one of the ladies on the bus spotted my Pancreatic Cancer Survivor tee and asked me about it. I shared a bit of my journey with her, which led to a heartfelt chat during the ride. It was one of those unexpected travel moments that sticks with you.

As we arrived back at Scenic Eclipse, we were greeted with a nice surprise—an invitation to dine at the Captain’s Table for our final evening tomorrow night. That certainly added a special touch to end the day!

We had a perfect end to the excursion today - a rainbow. It was absolutely perfect.

Dinner at Koko’s and the Packing Reality Check

Dinner tonight was at Koko’s—our last opportunity to enjoy their fantastic Asian-inspired dishes. As always, the food didn’t disappoint. We finished off with desserts from Azure—opting for a slice of carrot cake and a passionfruit crumble served in a tall glass, which was a perfect mix of sweet and tangy.

Afterwards, reality kicked in. It was time to begin the not-so-fun task of packing our bags, since they needed to be out tomorrow night. With the Captain’s Table dinner ahead and limited time to spare, we figured we’d better get organised early.

Whale watching

As we were packing, we had no choice but to stop mid-pack. The Captain had stopped the boat en-route to our next stop. The reason? Whales. Lots of whales. We spent quite a bit of time just chilling, watching, recording and taking photos of various whales. There were so many around and you could hear the sound of them blowing before you could see them. Such a cool sight late at night!