Castles, Kilchurns and Converted Eel Fans

Oban arrival and a balcony breakfast

We sailed into Oban, Scotland this morning — the gateway to the Highlands and today’s launchpad for a castle crawl. But first, the most important meal of the day: breakfast in our suite. Ros went with French raisin toast (crisp on the edges, soft in the middle), and I opted for pancakes – light, fluffy, and made even better with a hot chocolate and views of the Scottish coastline drifting past our balcony.

Inveraray Castle: History, Tartan, and Television Fame

Our main event today was a trip to Inveraray Castle, a stately home straight out of a period drama. While only the ground floor is open to visitors, there’s still plenty to admire — from the towering armoury hall with its collection of weapons, to tapestry-lined drawing rooms, and the elegant State Dining Room with its intricate plasterwork. It’s still the private home of the Duke of Argyll, head of Clan Campbell, which adds a very personal layer to all the grandeur.

And if the place looks familiar — it should. Inveraray Castle played the role of “Duneagle Castle” in the 2012 Downton Abbey Christmas Special, when the Crawleys paid a visit to their highland cousins. Even if you’ve never watched the show, the cinematic setting is undeniable.

Before heading back to the ship, we grabbed lunch in Oban, where we stumbled across what might just be the best fish and chips of the trip. It was interesting to note the reversal from what we’re used to at home — here, the standard is battered, and crumbed is the exception. The batter was light, crisp, and beautifully golden — absolutely delicious, with the added salt and vinegar, and the perfect salty reward after a day of castle roaming.

Tales of the town and roads worth writing home about

Inveraray itself is steeped in clan history and Highland tales. The current castle, completed in the late 1700s, replaced a much older fortification and was one of the first Gothic Revival-style buildings in the UK. The town of Inveraray was purpose-built alongside it, planned out in true 18th-century fashion and relocated to ensure the castle had a better view — talk about landscaping with ambition! You can feel the layers of history here, from Jacobite uprisings to tartan traditions.

The drive there was a scenic stunner, winding through the Pass of Brander, past glassy lochs and craggy hillsides, with the haunting ruins of Kilchurn Castle standing guard over Loch Awe. It’s easy to see why poets, painters, and slightly overexcited tourists love this route — every turn of the road feels like a movie backdrop.

Freshwater eel conversions and a sushi success story

Back on board, we returned to a familiar and welcome spot: Sushi @ Koko’s. We stuck to our favourites from last time – aburi salmon, shrimp nigiri, unagi, and the hand rolls. We sat next to an older couple who’d cruised with Scenic Eclipse several times before but had never dared try the freshwater eel. With our encouragement (read: peer pressure), they gave it a go. There was a little hesitation, a tentative bite… and then nods of approval. Another unagi convert or two for the books.

Azure endings and sweet goodnights

To finish off the day, we swung by Azure Café for dessert. A sweet end to a very Scottish day – castles, lochs, noble lineages, and the unspoken power of a well-timed sushi recommendation.